Fez, Morocco

Morocco is as far into Africa as I've gotten so far. I've been there twice — for a weekend with Lydia in 1982, and for two weeks with Vicki around '84.

Casablanca, to my surprise and disappointment, was drab and boring. Rabat, the capital, was more interesting, and Marrakesh was absolutely fascinating. My favorite place, though, was Fez — when you're there, you're not only in a foreign country, you're in another century. The photo at the left shows the leather-tanners' souk, where young boys dunk untanned hides into dye-filled pits and stand on them until the color has enough time to do its work. The smell is unbelievable and unforgettable — BYO clothespin for your nose.

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